'Impeccably written history and nostalgic memories, sailing and fishing blended with contemporary issues. It reminds me of Jonathan Raban's Passage to Juneau. A sea and its meanings.' - Mike Lee, Auckland Councillor, and long-time Gulf conservationist. 'Of the many books on the Hauraki Gulf over the years I'd say this is the richest and the best informed. As an historian he knows the background in detail, and you can bet that when he mentions a place in the Gulf then as a sailor he's sailed there.' - Geoff Walker, publisher, editor.

Kerry Howe has spent a life time writing about Pacific/Polynesian/New Zealand culture and history. His ten books have been internationally acclaimed, and his edition of Vaka Moana. Voyages of the Ancestors received the NZ Montana Book Awards for History in 2007. His research and teaching career was at Massey University, both Palmerston North and Auckland, with periods at universities in Australia, the USA and Canada. He has travelled extensively throughout the Pacific islands. He attained the position of Distinguished Professor before his retirement. In addition to his scholarship, he has always been an avid outdoor person, especially fishing and boating. He has undertaken many long-distance solo sea kayak journeys, and has written extensively on sea kayaking. In later years he and his wife have taken to sailing in a 50-year-old wooden yacht in the Hauraki Gulf, and further north. A born and bred Aucklander, he has had a life-long fascination with the Gulf islands.

Maps Preface Endings and beginning - Narrow Neck beach Rangitoto Motuihe Gulf formation Buying the first yacht Buying the second (and last) yacht Simple sailing First settlers First settlements In search of taro Waiheke Waiheke - sailing about Electronics Western imagining Western naming Maori naming and imagining A dynamic past Tenuous connections Musket wars Motutapu Motutapu - WWII Motutapu - life at Station Bay Securing the Hauraki Gulf Towards a tropical paradise? Mokohinau Islands Anchoring anthropology Motutara, Moturekareka and Motuketekete Boat watching Polynesian boats Captain's log Little Barrier/Hauturu A good day at the office Tiritiri Matangi Weather watch Hen and Chickens City viewing The fish and I Maori fishing - full circle Tender behind Tender travels Birds - at sea Birds - near the shore Birds - Maori knowledge Birds - their fate Motuora Lighthouses and lights The Noisies The act of sailing Insignificant rocks? Dolphins, whales, orca, sharks Rakino Kawau - industrial landscape Kawau - Mansion House Bay Kawau - wallaby woes Kawau - sailing about Kawau - North Cove Browns Island/Motukorea Dispossession Restitution? Sailing to Great Barrier/Aotea Great Barrier - Port FitzRoy Great Barrier - the grid at Smokehouse Bay Great Barrier - walking Port FitzRoy Great Barrier - Whangaparapara Great Barrier - former landscapes Great Barrier - choices and challenges Marinas and moorings Exploiting and restoring islands Exploiting and not restoring the sea End of the day Thanks to References Bibliography Index